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There's a moment in every expedition when it all becomes real. For us, that moment came in early July, when our kayaks left Vancouver and began their long journey north to Gjoa Haven. Getting anything way up north is an expedition in itself. The boats travelled by road (thanks Warren!) and by Buffalo Airways across thousands of kilometres to reach Gjoa Haven, the small hamlet on King William Island that will serve as our staging point. This week we got the news we'd been wait